Old Perodua Alza 2010 - Check Engine Light, No Power, and Difficulty to Start Engine

🚗 When Your Perodua Alza Loses Power… It Might Not Be What You Think

Have you ever experienced your Perodua Alza 2010 suddenly showing the check engine light, losing power when accelerating, and becoming difficult to start after shutting it off?

😓 It’s a frustrating situation — and your mind immediately starts racing.

You might assume that something serious has failed, and begin suspecting parts like:

🔧 Crankshaft Position Sensor
🔧 Camshaft Position Sensor
🔧 Fuel Injectors
🔧 Spark Plugs
🔧 Ignition Coils
🔧 Fuel Pump
🔧 Relays
🔧 IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)

So you start checking… and checking… and checking.

⏳ Hours go by. Maybe even days.

But everything seems fine.

At this point, you might convince yourself:
“Something must be faulty… I just haven’t found it yet.”

And that’s when costly replacements start becoming very tempting.

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💡 The Unexpected Discovery

I learned this the hard way.

After spending days troubleshooting and overthinking the issue, the real cause turned out to be something incredibly simple:

👉 A clogged fuel pump filter

Yes — that’s it.

No expensive sensors.
No major component failure.
Just a blockage affecting fuel flow.

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🧪 How I Found Out (Without Opening Anything)

Here’s the interesting part.

I didn’t even remove the fuel pump to inspect it.

Instead, I tried a simple and affordable solution:

🛢️ Mr. DIY Aeropak Petrol Fuel System Cleaner

After pouring it into the fuel tank, something amazing happened:

✅ Check engine light disappeared
✅ Engine power returned
✅ Car started normally again

And the best part?

💰 It only cost around RM7.00

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🤯 The Lesson Learned

Sometimes, we tend to:

❌ Overthink the problem
❌ Assume the worst-case scenario
❌ Spend time and money replacing parts blindly

When in reality, the issue might be something small and easily fixable.

It’s honestly frustrating to realize that after all the effort, the solution was so simple… and so cheap.

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✅ Final Advice

Next time you experience:

⚠️ Check engine light
⚠️ Loss of power
⚠️ Difficulty starting

Before jumping into expensive repairs…

👉 Try a simple fuel system cleaner first.

It might just save you:

💸 Money
⏱️ Time
😵 Stress

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Sometimes, the smallest fix makes the biggest difference.

MotoLube 5w50 Engine Oil Review After First Time Use

🚗 First Time Trying MotoLube 5W30 – Surprisingly Impressive!

So I recently tried MotoLube 5W30 brewed by Yokohama Malaysia, and let me tell you—this budget-friendly oil took me by surprise.

🔧 The Discovery

I picked up a bottle from SK Hardware 6th Mile Kuching for only RM98—yes, only RM98! At first, I wasn’t expecting much. I’ve been using Perodua’s standard engine oil on my old Alza for quite some time. It gets the job done, but never really impressed me.

⚙️ The First Drive

After the oil change, I immediately felt the difference. The engine felt noticeably lighter, almost identical to how it feels with Shell Helix HX7 5W30. Throttle response improved, and it even felt like I gained a bit more torque. For a car like mine, that’s a big deal.

💡 Performance vs. Price

Based on experience, MotoLube performed nearly on par with Shell Helix HX7. What shocked me was that it outperformed Perodua’s own engine oil, and yet cost less—at least at the time. And here’s the kicker:

Fuel consumption dropped from 12L/100km to 9.9L/100km.
That’s a huge win in terms of fuel economy for my Alza.

😮 The Price Hike

Naturally, I went back to grab another bottle a week or two later. But to my dismay, the price had shot up to nearly RM135—almost matching the Shell Helix price. Yeah, I was a bit disappointed. But honestly? I get it.

If I were MotoLube, I’d raise the price too. They clearly know they’ve made something good.

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🔚 Final Thoughts

If you can still find MotoLube 5W30 at a good price, don’t hesitate—grab it. It gives premium oil performance at a budget price (well, it did). It made my engine smoother, lighter, and more fuel-efficient, and that’s everything I want in a good engine oil.

Let’s just hope SK Hardware does another promo soon. 😅

New Perodua Alza 2022 Fuse & Relay

New Perodua Alza 2022 Fuse and Relay In the Engine Bay  

Relay & Fuse Box Components and Their Functions

No.	Component	Rating	Function
1	HTR - Aircond	40A	Powers the air conditioning system.
2	RDI - Radiator	30A	Powers the radiator fan to prevent engine overheating.
3	ST - Starter	30A	Provides power to the starter motor for engine ignition.
4	EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection	15A	Powers the electronic fuel injection system for proper fuel delivery.
5	H-LP LH - Headlamp LH	15A	Powers the left-side headlamp.
6	H-LP RH - Headlamp RH	15A	Powers the right-side headlamp.
7	IG2 - Ignition 2	20A	Supplies power to secondary ignition-related components.
8	IG1 - Ignition 1	20A	Provides power to primary ignition-related components.
9	Fuel PMP	20A	Powers the fuel pump, supplying fuel to the engine.
10	ETCS	10A	Powers the Electronic Throttle Control System for engine performance.
11	HAZ - Hazard	10A	Powers the hazard lights for emergency signaling.
12	ABS	50A	Supplies power to the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS).
13	EPS	50A	Powers the Electric Power Steering (EPS) system.
14	ABS No. 2	30A	Additional fuse for the ABS system.
15	P/Outlet No. 2	15A	Powers power outlets (such as charging ports).
16	BACK UP	10A	Provides power to backup memory functions like clock and radio presets.
17	MG CLT	10A	Powers the Magnetic Clutch, usually related to the A/C compressor.
18	ST No. 2	10A	Additional fuse for the starter motor circuit.
19	BKUP LP	5A	Provides backup power to low-power circuits.
20	ECU IG2 - ECU Ignition 2	10A	Supplies power to the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
21	ENG	10A	General engine-related power supply.
22	EFI No. 2 - Electronic Fuel Injection No. 2	7.5A	Additional fuse for Electronic Fuel Injection.

Here's a table listing the fuses and relays from the provided image, along with their functions:

No.	Fuse Name	Rating (A)	Function
1	P/W No. 2	30A	Power window circuit protection
2	DEF - Defogger	20A	Rear window defogger system
3	ACC	10A	Accessory circuit (radio, power outlets, etc.)
4	Washer	15A	Windshield washer motor
5	HORN	10A	Car horn circuit
6	A/C	7.5A	Air conditioning system
7	FOG LH	10A	Left-hand fog light
8	FOG RH	10A	Right-hand fog light
9	BACK UP No.2	10A	Backup lights and memory power for systems
10	Strg Lock	10A	Steering lock system
11	AM 1	5A	Ignition circuit
12	P/W	20A	Power windows circuit
13	D/L No. 2	5A	Door lock circuit
14	P/Outlet	15A	Power outlet (e.g., cigarette lighter socket)
15	STOP	10A	Brake light circuit
16	D/L - Door Lock	15A	Door lock actuator circuit
17	Meter IG1	10A	Instrument panel and gauge cluster
18	ECU IG1	7.5A	Engine Control Unit (ECU) power supply
19	Wiper	25A	Windshield wiper motor circuit
20	IG1 No. 2	7.5A	Ignition circuit
21	OBD	10A	On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) system
22	DOME	10A	Interior lighting (dome light)
23	RR WIP - Rear Wiper	10A	Rear windshield wiper motor
24	AM2	7.5A	Ignition system, starter relay power
25	TAIL	10A	Tail light circuit
26	Spare	10A	Reserved for additional circuits
27	Spare	15A	Reserved for additional circuits
28	Spare	20A	Reserved for additional circuits

Old Perodua Alza 2010 - 2018 Fuses & Relays

Fuse and Relay of the old Perodua Alza 2010 - 2018 are the same as the old MyVi as below

Alza Engine Box Fuse and Relay

Relay & Fuse Box Components and Their Functions

No.	Component	Rating	Function
1	ABS 1 Fuse	40A	Protects the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) power circuit.
2	ST Relay	-	Controls the starter motor operation.
3	R/FAN Relay	-	Controls the operation of the radiator fan.
4	ECU-B Fuse	10A	Supplies power to the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
5	ABS 2 Fuse	20A	Additional fuse for the ABS system.
6	BACK UP Fuse	10A	Powers backup systems such as memory functions (e.g., clock, radio presets).
7	DOME Fuse	7.5A	Powers the interior dome lights.
8	MGC Fuse	10A	Likely related to the engine management system (could be for Magnetic Clutch).
9	AM 2 Fuse	30A	Powers ignition-related systems.
10	MGC Relay	-	Controls the Magnetic Clutch (potentially for A/C compressor).
11	HEAD Relay	-	Controls power to the headlights.
12	EFI Fuse	15A	Provides power to the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system.
13	STOP Fuse	7.5A	Powers the brake light circuit.
14	ST Fuse	7.5A	Powers the starter circuit.
15	H-LP RH (HI) Fuse	10A	Powers the right-side high beam headlight.
16	H-LP LH (HI) Fuse	10A	Powers the left-side high beam headlight.
17	H-LP RH (LO) Fuse	10A	Powers the right-side low beam headlight.
18	H-LP LH (LO) Fuse	10A	Powers the left-side low beam headlight.
19	HEATER Fuse	40A	Powers the heating system (for defrosters, A/C heater, or cabin heater).
20	R/FAN Fuse	30A	Powers the radiator fan system.

Old Alza 2010 - 2018 Main Fuse Block Components and Their Functions

Fuse	Rating	Function
POWER IG	30A	Powers the ignition system and essential electrical components.
ACC	7.5A	Powers accessories like the radio, charging ports, and dashboard functions.
ECU IG1	7.5A	Provides power to the first ignition circuit of the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
HORN/HAZ	10A	Controls the horn and hazard lights.
AM2	20A	Supplies power to ignition and engine-related components.
D/L	15A	Controls the door lock system.
AM1	15A	Powers ignition components and engine management systems.
TAIL	7.5A	Powers the tail lights, parking lights, and license plate lights.
FR WIPER	25A	Protects the front windshield wiper motor circuit.
RR WIPER	15A	Protects the rear windshield wiper motor circuit.
FOG RH	10A	Powers the right fog light.
DEFOG	20A	Powers the rear window defogger.
FOG LH	10A	Powers the left fog light.
SOCKET	15A	Protects the power socket (for charging devices).
E/G	10A	Supplies power to the engine control and management systems.
ECU IG2	7.5A	Provides power to the second ignition circuit of the ECU.
IG1/BACK	7.5A	Powers the ignition system and reverse lights.

Fius Alza lama

DIY Car Voltage Stabilizer Guide: Boosting Torque and Power – Does It Really Work?

If you're interested in boosting your car's performance with a DIY solution, voltage stabilizers might be something you've come across. These devices are marketed with claims of better torque, increased horsepower, and smoother acceleration, but opinions on their effectiveness vary. This guide will explore how car voltage stabilizers work, whether they really live up to the hype, and provide a step-by-step DIY approach.

 What Is a Car Voltage Stabilizer, and Do You Need One?

A car voltage stabilizer is designed to keep electrical voltage steady, connecting to the car battery and sometimes using grounding cables to reduce fluctuations. These fluctuations can affect performance, especially in vehicles with lots of electronic accessories or older wiring.

Do voltage stabilizers really work in cars? Results vary. Some drivers notice improvements in systems like audio and lighting, while performance gains are less clear. Voltage stabilizers may benefit components like the ECU (Engine Control Unit) by maintaining a stable voltage, potentially improving throttle response in models like the Perodua Alza. But for more noticeable power gains, you may need other upgrades.

 Can a Voltage Stabilizer Boost Power and Torque?

There’s a lot of discussion around whether voltage stabilizers can increase power and torque. They can help maintain steady power, which may smooth out acceleration or reduce hesitation in some cars, especially older ones or those with weak electrical systems. However, they don’t directly add horsepower. The biggest benefits are often in response and stability rather than a true power boost.

 The Myth and Reality of Voltage Stabilizers

Many claims about voltage stabilizers revolve around fuel efficiency, horsepower, and torque. The myth of voltage stabilizers often arises from misunderstanding their role: they stabilize voltage but don’t add engine output directly. If you’re expecting a big performance increase, you may be disappointed, though smoother operation is possible.

 DIY Car Voltage Stabilizer: Step-By-Step

Here’s a quick guide to making your own DIY voltage stabilizer.

1. Gather Materials: You’ll need a capacitor and grounding cables. Some people repurpose old capacitors to make a 12V car voltage stabilizer.

2. Assemble the Stabilizer: Connect the capacitor to the grounding cables. Capacitors stabilize voltage by absorbing excess and discharging it as needed.

3. Install on Car Battery: Secure the stabilizer to the battery and connect the grounding wires properly.

4. Test: Run your car and observe for smoother throttle response or other subtle changes.

Grounding Cables vs. Voltage Stabilizers: What's the Difference?

Grounding cables provide a more direct path for electrical flow, reducing resistance, while voltage stabilizers buffer fluctuations. Some aftermarket kits like the HKS Power Charger Voltage Stabilizer or RAIZIN Voltage Stabilizer include both grounding and stabilization.

 Popular Voltage Stabilizers and Reviews

Considering buying a voltage stabilizer instead of DIY? Here are some options.

• Pivot Mega Raizin: Known for voltage stability, grounding improvements, and effectiveness in audio and minor performance boosts.
• D1 Spec Voltage Stabilizer: Often praised for lighting and throttle response improvements.
• Hot Inazma Voltage Stabilizer and Zaptor Evolve III: Both offer voltage regulation with varying effectiveness based on car and electrical needs.

 How to Install a Car Voltage Stabilizer

To install, connect the stabilizer to the battery, attach grounding cables to the chassis, and test for improved stability in lights or throttle response.

 Pros and Cons of Car Voltage Stabilizers

Pros:

• Stabilizes voltage for sensitive electronics
• Possible minor improvements in response
• Potential fuel efficiency gains

Cons:

• Limited power gains
• Mixed results in newer vehicles
• Not a replacement for other performance upgrades

 Conclusion: Are Voltage Stabilizers Worth It?

In summary, do car voltage stabilizers really work? They can offer benefits for electrical stability and response, especially in older vehicles or those with voltage-sensitive electronics. While they may smooth performance, substantial gains require other modifications.

Whether you choose a Pivot Mega Raizin, Zaptor, or DIY stabilizer, remember that results will vary and that these aren’t a substitute for major tuning or upgrades.