The Hidden Danger of Reckless DIY Transmission Fluid Change on an Old Perodua Alza

Doing your own car maintenance can save a lot of money. For many owners of the Perodua Alza, changing transmission fluid at home feels like a simple and straightforward task. Drain the old fluid, replace the filter, refill the oil, and everything should work perfectly again.

But sometimes a small mistake during a DIY repair can slowly turn into a nightmare that takes months to diagnose.

The Beginning of the Strange Gear Problem

After performing a transmission fluid service on an old Alza, random transmission issues started appearing unexpectedly. The strange part was that the issue did not happen all the time, making it extremely difficult to trace.

Some days the car drove normally.

Other times, the transmission behaved as if the gear never properly locked into place.

When pressing the accelerator pedal, the engine RPM stayed unusually low and the car struggled to move beyond around 30 km/h. Even flooring the pedal produced very little power pickup. It felt as if the engine was being held back or the transmission was slipping badly.

Naturally, many possible causes came into mind.

The Endless Troubleshooting Process

Because the symptoms felt similar to engine power loss, multiple inspections and repairs were carried out over time, including:

• Inspecting possible clogged fuel pump issues

• Replacing the crankshaft position sensor

• Changing spark plugs

• General engine inspections

• Checking ignition-related components

Despite all the effort and money spent, the issue still randomly returned.

This made the diagnosis even more frustrating because the car could behave perfectly fine for days before suddenly losing power again.

The Real Problem Was Hidden Inside the Transmission Pan

Eventually, another issue appeared — a snapped bolt on the transmission oil pan.

This forced the transmission fluid to be drained again so the pan could be removed and repaired.

That was when the real cause of the mysterious problem was finally discovered.

The transmission filter had completely fallen off inside the oil pan.

The moment the pan was opened, the filter could be seen sitting loosely at the bottom instead of being properly secured in position.

This meant:

• The filter was never properly fitted during the earlier DIY service

• Transmission fluid was not being filtered correctly

• Fluid flow inside the transmission became inconsistent

• Hydraulic pressure for gear shifting was affected

• The transmission occasionally failed to engage gears properly

In automatic transmissions, fluid pressure is extremely important. The transmission relies on proper fluid circulation to engage clutches, valves, and gear changes smoothly.

When the filter becomes loose or detached, the transmission may struggle to pull sufficient fluid consistently. This can create delayed shifting, slipping gears, low acceleration response, or random loss of driving power.

A Small Mistake That Became a Big Problem

What made the situation dangerous was how deceptive the symptoms were.

The problem looked like:

• Fuel delivery issue

• Sensor malfunction

• Ignition weakness

• Engine power loss

But the actual root cause was hidden deep inside the transmission pan all along.

One improperly seated transmission filter caused months of confusion and unnecessary repairs.

Important Lesson for DIY Mechanics

DIY repairs are rewarding and educational, but automatic transmissions require extra care and attention.

During a transmission fluid service:

• Always ensure the transmission filter is properly locked into place

• Double-check rubber seals and O-rings

• Inspect whether the filter can move loosely before closing the pan

• Tighten bolts evenly using correct torque

• Never rush reassembly work

A transmission may still appear to work normally even with mistakes hidden inside, but over time the symptoms can become severe and unpredictable.

Final Thoughts

Older vehicles like the Perodua Alza can still remain reliable for many years, but small overlooked mistakes during maintenance can create complicated issues that are difficult to diagnose.

Sometimes the biggest problems come from the smallest parts.

And in this case, a simple transmission filter that was never properly secured ended up causing random gear problems, power loss symptoms, and countless hours of unnecessary troubleshooting.

Fuel Pump Removal and Installation Guide for Perodua Alza 2010

There are several steps you can follow to make removing the existing fuel pump safer and easier before installing a new one.

Step 1: Relieve Fuel Pressure (Important Safety Step)

First, remove the EFI fuel fuse to stop the fuel pump from operating and to prevent pressure buildup in the fuel hose.
Then, crank the engine 1–2 times to release any remaining fuel pressure inside the hose.

This step is important because it helps prevent fuel from spraying out when you disconnect the fuel lines later.

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Step 2: Access the Fuel Pump

The fuel pump is located underneath the rear left passenger seat.

1. Remove the left rear seat.

2. Unscrew the seatbelt bolt on the left passenger side.

3. Slightly lift the rear seat to detach the carpet from the seat clips.

4. Pull the carpet aside to expose the fuel pump access panel.

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Tools Required

• 14mm socket spanner (or impact wrench) – for seat bolts

• 17mm socket spanner (or impact wrench) – for seatbelt bolt

• 6mm socket or Phillips screwdriver – for fuel pump screws/bolts

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Extra Tip

Using an impact wrench can significantly speed up the process, especially when dealing with tight or old bolts.

Old Perodua Alza 2010 - Check Engine Light, No Power, and Difficulty to Start Engine

🚗 When Your Perodua Alza Loses Power… It Might Not Be What You Think

Have you ever experienced your Perodua Alza 2010 suddenly showing the check engine light, losing power when accelerating, and becoming difficult to start after shutting it off?

😓 It’s a frustrating situation — and your mind immediately starts racing.

You might assume that something serious has failed, and begin suspecting parts like:

🔧 Crankshaft Position Sensor
🔧 Camshaft Position Sensor
🔧 Fuel Injectors
🔧 Spark Plugs
🔧 Ignition Coils
🔧 Fuel Pump
🔧 Relays
🔧 IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)

So you start checking… and checking… and checking.

⏳ Hours go by. Maybe even days.

But everything seems fine.

At this point, you might convince yourself:
“Something must be faulty… I just haven’t found it yet.”

And that’s when costly replacements start becoming very tempting.

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💡 The Unexpected Discovery

I learned this the hard way.

After spending days troubleshooting and overthinking the issue, the real cause turned out to be something incredibly simple:

👉 A clogged fuel pump filter

Yes — that’s it.

No expensive sensors.
No major component failure.
Just a blockage affecting fuel flow.

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🧪 How I Found Out (Without Opening Anything)

Here’s the interesting part.

I didn’t even remove the fuel pump to inspect it.

Instead, I tried a simple and affordable solution:

🛢️ Mr. DIY Aeropak Petrol Fuel System Cleaner

After pouring it into the fuel tank, something amazing happened:

✅ Check engine light disappeared
✅ Engine power returned
✅ Car started normally again

And the best part?

💰 It only cost around RM7.00

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🤯 The Lesson Learned

Sometimes, we tend to:

❌ Overthink the problem
❌ Assume the worst-case scenario
❌ Spend time and money replacing parts blindly

When in reality, the issue might be something small and easily fixable.

It’s honestly frustrating to realize that after all the effort, the solution was so simple… and so cheap.

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✅ Final Advice

Next time you experience:

⚠️ Check engine light
⚠️ Loss of power
⚠️ Difficulty starting

Before jumping into expensive repairs…

👉 Try a simple fuel system cleaner first.

It might just save you:

💸 Money
⏱️ Time
😵 Stress

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Sometimes, the smallest fix makes the biggest difference.

MotoLube 5w50 Engine Oil Review After First Time Use

🚗 First Time Trying MotoLube 5W30 – Surprisingly Impressive!

So I recently tried MotoLube 5W30 brewed by Yokohama Malaysia, and let me tell you—this budget-friendly oil took me by surprise.

🔧 The Discovery

I picked up a bottle from SK Hardware 6th Mile Kuching for only RM98—yes, only RM98! At first, I wasn’t expecting much. I’ve been using Perodua’s standard engine oil on my old Alza for quite some time. It gets the job done, but never really impressed me.

⚙️ The First Drive

After the oil change, I immediately felt the difference. The engine felt noticeably lighter, almost identical to how it feels with Shell Helix HX7 5W30. Throttle response improved, and it even felt like I gained a bit more torque. For a car like mine, that’s a big deal.

💡 Performance vs. Price

Based on experience, MotoLube performed nearly on par with Shell Helix HX7. What shocked me was that it outperformed Perodua’s own engine oil, and yet cost less—at least at the time. And here’s the kicker:

Fuel consumption dropped from 12L/100km to 9.9L/100km.
That’s a huge win in terms of fuel economy for my Alza.

😮 The Price Hike

Naturally, I went back to grab another bottle a week or two later. But to my dismay, the price had shot up to nearly RM135—almost matching the Shell Helix price. Yeah, I was a bit disappointed. But honestly? I get it.

If I were MotoLube, I’d raise the price too. They clearly know they’ve made something good.

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🔚 Final Thoughts

If you can still find MotoLube 5W30 at a good price, don’t hesitate—grab it. It gives premium oil performance at a budget price (well, it did). It made my engine smoother, lighter, and more fuel-efficient, and that’s everything I want in a good engine oil.

Let’s just hope SK Hardware does another promo soon. 😅

New Perodua Alza 2022 Fuse & Relay

New Perodua Alza 2022 Fuse and Relay In the Engine Bay  

Relay & Fuse Box Components and Their Functions

No.	Component	Rating	Function
1	HTR - Aircond	40A	Powers the air conditioning system.
2	RDI - Radiator	30A	Powers the radiator fan to prevent engine overheating.
3	ST - Starter	30A	Provides power to the starter motor for engine ignition.
4	EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection	15A	Powers the electronic fuel injection system for proper fuel delivery.
5	H-LP LH - Headlamp LH	15A	Powers the left-side headlamp.
6	H-LP RH - Headlamp RH	15A	Powers the right-side headlamp.
7	IG2 - Ignition 2	20A	Supplies power to secondary ignition-related components.
8	IG1 - Ignition 1	20A	Provides power to primary ignition-related components.
9	Fuel PMP	20A	Powers the fuel pump, supplying fuel to the engine.
10	ETCS	10A	Powers the Electronic Throttle Control System for engine performance.
11	HAZ - Hazard	10A	Powers the hazard lights for emergency signaling.
12	ABS	50A	Supplies power to the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS).
13	EPS	50A	Powers the Electric Power Steering (EPS) system.
14	ABS No. 2	30A	Additional fuse for the ABS system.
15	P/Outlet No. 2	15A	Powers power outlets (such as charging ports).
16	BACK UP	10A	Provides power to backup memory functions like clock and radio presets.
17	MG CLT	10A	Powers the Magnetic Clutch, usually related to the A/C compressor.
18	ST No. 2	10A	Additional fuse for the starter motor circuit.
19	BKUP LP	5A	Provides backup power to low-power circuits.
20	ECU IG2 - ECU Ignition 2	10A	Supplies power to the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
21	ENG	10A	General engine-related power supply.
22	EFI No. 2 - Electronic Fuel Injection No. 2	7.5A	Additional fuse for Electronic Fuel Injection.

Here's a table listing the fuses and relays from the provided image, along with their functions:

No.	Fuse Name	Rating (A)	Function
1	P/W No. 2	30A	Power window circuit protection
2	DEF - Defogger	20A	Rear window defogger system
3	ACC	10A	Accessory circuit (radio, power outlets, etc.)
4	Washer	15A	Windshield washer motor
5	HORN	10A	Car horn circuit
6	A/C	7.5A	Air conditioning system
7	FOG LH	10A	Left-hand fog light
8	FOG RH	10A	Right-hand fog light
9	BACK UP No.2	10A	Backup lights and memory power for systems
10	Strg Lock	10A	Steering lock system
11	AM 1	5A	Ignition circuit
12	P/W	20A	Power windows circuit
13	D/L No. 2	5A	Door lock circuit
14	P/Outlet	15A	Power outlet (e.g., cigarette lighter socket)
15	STOP	10A	Brake light circuit
16	D/L - Door Lock	15A	Door lock actuator circuit
17	Meter IG1	10A	Instrument panel and gauge cluster
18	ECU IG1	7.5A	Engine Control Unit (ECU) power supply
19	Wiper	25A	Windshield wiper motor circuit
20	IG1 No. 2	7.5A	Ignition circuit
21	OBD	10A	On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) system
22	DOME	10A	Interior lighting (dome light)
23	RR WIP - Rear Wiper	10A	Rear windshield wiper motor
24	AM2	7.5A	Ignition system, starter relay power
25	TAIL	10A	Tail light circuit
26	Spare	10A	Reserved for additional circuits
27	Spare	15A	Reserved for additional circuits
28	Spare	20A	Reserved for additional circuits