Perodua Alza 2010 Lama Camshaft Position Sensor Worn Out (Faulty) – Symptoms and Real Driving Experience

Older Perodua Alza models can eventually develop sensor-related problems after many years of use. One of the common hidden issues that can create random and confusing driving problems is a worn out or faulty camshaft position sensor.

The difficult part about this problem is that the car can behave perfectly normal most of the time. Then suddenly, without warning, the engine starts acting strange and loses power badly.

Symptoms of a Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor

1. Sometimes Unable to Start Engine

One of the early warning signs is intermittent starting problems.

Sometimes the engine cranks normally but refuses to start. After waiting for a while, the engine may suddenly start again like nothing happened.

This happens because the ECU struggles to detect the camshaft position correctly. Without proper signal timing, fuel injection and ignition timing become inconsistent.

Because the issue comes and goes randomly, many owners initially suspect:

• Weak battery

• Starter problem

• Fuel pump issue

• Spark plugs

• Ignition coil

However the actual cause may be the camshaft position sensor itself.

2. Sudden Power Loss While Driving

This is the more dangerous symptom.

While driving normally on the road, suddenly there is a knocking sensation or jerk from the engine. Immediately after that:

• Check engine light appears

• Acceleration fails completely

• Pressing the gas pedal does almost nothing

• Engine becomes loud but car does not move faster

• Vehicle only crawls around 20km/h to 30km/h

It feels like the transmission is failing or the engine has entered emergency mode.

Even at full throttle:

• RPM may increase

• Engine noise becomes louder

• But the vehicle has almost no power

The car still moves slowly, enough to reach roadside or workshop, but normal acceleration disappears completely.

This can be extremely frustrating because after restarting the engine later, the car may return to normal operation again.

Intermittent Nature Makes Diagnosis Difficult

The confusing part is:

• Most of the time the car drives perfectly fine

• Symptoms only happen once or twice a week

• Some days no problem at all

Because of this intermittent behavior, workshops may misdiagnose the issue and replace unnecessary parts first.

Scan Tool Error Codes

Using an OBD scan tool may show:

P0340 – Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit (Angle Cam Sensor)

This is the main indicator that the ECU is detecting abnormal or missing signal from the camshaft position sensor.

The sensor may be:

• Worn out internally

• Heat damaged

• Having unstable signal

• Intermittently disconnected

• Affected by deteriorated wiring

U0100 – EFI Communication Failure

This code may appear together with the camshaft sensor problem because unstable engine timing signals can confuse communication between ECU modules.

Sometimes the ECU enters limp mode to protect the engine, resulting in severe power reduction.

Why It Happens More on Older Alza

After many years:

• Heat from engine bay damages electronics

• Oil contamination affects sensor readings

• Wiring becomes brittle

• Connector terminals oxidize

• Internal magnetic sensor weakens

The problem usually becomes worse gradually over time.

Common Mistake During Diagnosis

Many owners spend money replacing:

• Spark plugs

• Ignition coils

• Fuel pump

• Battery

• Transmission servicing

before discovering the actual culprit is the camshaft position sensor.

Because the issue is random, mechanics may also struggle to reproduce the symptom during inspection.

Recommended Action

If your Alza shows:

• Random starting issues

• Sudden limp mode

• Check engine light

• P0340 error code

• Severe loss of acceleration

then the camshaft position sensor and its wiring should be inspected immediately.

In many cases, replacing the sensor solves the problem completely.

Final Thoughts

A faulty camshaft position sensor in an older Perodua Alza can create very serious driving symptoms even though the car appears normal most of the time.

The intermittent nature of the issue makes it difficult to diagnose, but once the symptoms become more frequent, replacement should not be delayed because sudden loss of acceleration during driving can become dangerous, especially on highways or during overtaking.

Perodua Alza Old ( Lama ) 2010 Crankshaft Position Sensor Faulty (Worn Out) Not Faulty

⚠️ Old Perodua Alza 2010 Crankshaft Position Sensor Symptoms and Hidden Problems

If you own an old Perodua Alza and suddenly experience random engine problems, difficult starting, or sudden loss of power while driving, there is a high chance the crankshaft position sensor may already be worn out.

The tricky part is that the sensor may not fail completely at first. Instead, it slowly becomes unreliable over time, causing intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.

Many owners end up replacing unrelated parts such as spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, or even battery before discovering the actual culprit.

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🔧 What Does the Crankshaft Position Sensor Do?

The crankshaft position sensor is responsible for detecting the rotation and position of the engine crankshaft.

This information is sent to the ECU (Engine Control Unit) so the engine can properly control:

• Fuel injection timing

• Ignition timing

• Engine synchronization

• RPM detection

Without accurate readings from this sensor, the engine can behave unpredictably.

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🚨 Symptoms of a Worn-Out Crankshaft Position Sensor

From real-world experience with an old Alza 2010, these were the common symptoms before total failure happened.

1. Occasionally Difficult to Start Engine

Sometimes the engine cranks normally but takes longer to start.

Other times it may require several attempts before ignition happens.

This usually occurs because the sensor reading becomes unstable when hot or worn.

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2. Sudden Loss of Power While Driving

One of the scariest symptoms is when the car suddenly loses acceleration power while driving.

At the same time:

• The check engine light appears

• RPM response becomes sluggish

• Pressing the accelerator feels delayed

• Vehicle struggles to gain speed

The engine may still run, but power delivery becomes inconsistent.

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3. Car Won’t Start in “P” but Starts in “N”

This symptom can be confusing.

Sometimes the engine refuses to start while the gear is in Park (P), but surprisingly starts when shifted to Neutral (N).

This can mislead owners into suspecting:

• Gearbox issue

• Neutral safety switch

• Battery problem

However, in some cases, the unstable crankshaft sensor signal contributes to inconsistent starting behavior.

---

4. Random Low and High Power While Driving

The driving experience becomes uncomfortable and unpredictable.

Sometimes the car feels normal.

Other times:

• Power suddenly drops

• Engine response becomes rough

• Acceleration feels uneven

• RPM behavior becomes inconsistent

It may feel like the engine is “confused” during acceleration.

This is often a sign the crankshaft sensor is deteriorating but has not fully failed yet.

---

🛠️ Replacing the Sensor

The faulty sensor was eventually replaced with a non-original crankshaft position sensor.

Surprisingly, the replacement worked quite well and restored:

• Smooth acceleration

• Easier engine starting

• Stable power delivery

• Normal driving feel

However, long-term durability is still uncertain compared to a genuine original part.

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🔍 Difference Between Genuine and Non-Genuine Sensor

The replacement sensor carried the laser engraved part number:

90919-05043

At first glance it looks authentic, but closer inspection revealed differences.

Genuine Denso Version

• Laser engraving aligned properly with the bolt hole

• Cleaner finishing

• More precise alignment

Non-Genuine Version

• Engraving slightly offset from the bolt hole alignment

• Slightly different finishing quality

Even though the non-original version works, build quality differences can sometimes indicate shorter lifespan or lower heat resistance.

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💡 Important Lesson

A partially worn crankshaft position sensor can create confusing intermittent problems that appear and disappear randomly.

Because the engine may still run, many people overlook the sensor until the issue becomes severe.

If your old Alza shows:

• Random no-start issues

• Sudden power loss

• Check engine light

• Uneven acceleration

• Intermittent driving behavior

then the crankshaft position sensor should definitely be inspected early before replacing other expensive components unnecessarily.

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🚗 Final Thoughts

For aging vehicles like the 2010 Alza, electrical sensors naturally degrade over time due to:

• Engine heat

• Vibration

• Oil contamination

• Age-related wear

The crankshaft position sensor may be small, but once it becomes unreliable, it can make the entire vehicle feel unstable and frustrating to drive.

Replacing it early may save:

• Diagnostic costs

• Unnecessary part replacements

• Breakdowns on the road

• Long-term driving stress

Sometimes a tiny sensor causes the biggest headaches.

The Hidden Danger of Reckless DIY Transmission Fluid Change on an Old Perodua Alza

Doing your own car maintenance can save a lot of money. For many owners of the Perodua Alza, changing transmission fluid at home feels like a simple and straightforward task. Drain the old fluid, replace the filter, refill the oil, and everything should work perfectly again.

But sometimes a small mistake during a DIY repair can slowly turn into a nightmare that takes months to diagnose.

The Beginning of the Strange Gear Problem

After performing a transmission fluid service on an old Alza, random transmission issues started appearing unexpectedly. The strange part was that the issue did not happen all the time, making it extremely difficult to trace.

Some days the car drove normally.

Other times, the transmission behaved as if the gear never properly locked into place.

When pressing the accelerator pedal, the engine RPM stayed unusually low and the car struggled to move beyond around 30 km/h. Even flooring the pedal produced very little power pickup. It felt as if the engine was being held back or the transmission was slipping badly.

Naturally, many possible causes came into mind.

The Endless Troubleshooting Process

Because the symptoms felt similar to engine power loss, multiple inspections and repairs were carried out over time, including:

• Inspecting possible clogged fuel pump issues

• Replacing the crankshaft position sensor

• Changing spark plugs

• General engine inspections

• Checking ignition-related components

Despite all the effort and money spent, the issue still randomly returned.

This made the diagnosis even more frustrating because the car could behave perfectly fine for days before suddenly losing power again.

The Real Problem Was Hidden Inside the Transmission Pan

Eventually, another issue appeared — a snapped bolt on the transmission oil pan.

This forced the transmission fluid to be drained again so the pan could be removed and repaired.

That was when the real cause of the mysterious problem was finally discovered.

The transmission filter had completely fallen off inside the oil pan.

The moment the pan was opened, the filter could be seen sitting loosely at the bottom instead of being properly secured in position.

This meant:

• The filter was never properly fitted during the earlier DIY service

• Transmission fluid was not being filtered correctly

• Fluid flow inside the transmission became inconsistent

• Hydraulic pressure for gear shifting was affected

• The transmission occasionally failed to engage gears properly

In automatic transmissions, fluid pressure is extremely important. The transmission relies on proper fluid circulation to engage clutches, valves, and gear changes smoothly.

When the filter becomes loose or detached, the transmission may struggle to pull sufficient fluid consistently. This can create delayed shifting, slipping gears, low acceleration response, or random loss of driving power.

A Small Mistake That Became a Big Problem

What made the situation dangerous was how deceptive the symptoms were.

The problem looked like:

• Fuel delivery issue

• Sensor malfunction

• Ignition weakness

• Engine power loss

But the actual root cause was hidden deep inside the transmission pan all along.

One improperly seated transmission filter caused months of confusion and unnecessary repairs.

Important Lesson for DIY Mechanics

DIY repairs are rewarding and educational, but automatic transmissions require extra care and attention.

During a transmission fluid service:

• Always ensure the transmission filter is properly locked into place

• Double-check rubber seals and O-rings

• Inspect whether the filter can move loosely before closing the pan

• Tighten bolts evenly using correct torque

• Never rush reassembly work

A transmission may still appear to work normally even with mistakes hidden inside, but over time the symptoms can become severe and unpredictable.

Final Thoughts

Older vehicles like the Perodua Alza can still remain reliable for many years, but small overlooked mistakes during maintenance can create complicated issues that are difficult to diagnose.

Sometimes the biggest problems come from the smallest parts.

And in this case, a simple transmission filter that was never properly secured ended up causing random gear problems, power loss symptoms, and countless hours of unnecessary troubleshooting.

Fuel Pump Removal and Installation Guide for Perodua Alza 2010

There are several steps you can follow to make removing the existing fuel pump safer and easier before installing a new one.

Step 1: Relieve Fuel Pressure (Important Safety Step)

First, remove the EFI fuel fuse to stop the fuel pump from operating and to prevent pressure buildup in the fuel hose.
Then, crank the engine 1–2 times to release any remaining fuel pressure inside the hose.

This step is important because it helps prevent fuel from spraying out when you disconnect the fuel lines later.

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Step 2: Access the Fuel Pump

The fuel pump is located underneath the rear left passenger seat.

1. Remove the left rear seat.

2. Unscrew the seatbelt bolt on the left passenger side.

3. Slightly lift the rear seat to detach the carpet from the seat clips.

4. Pull the carpet aside to expose the fuel pump access panel.

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Tools Required

• 14mm socket spanner (or impact wrench) – for seat bolts

• 17mm socket spanner (or impact wrench) – for seatbelt bolt

• 6mm socket or Phillips screwdriver – for fuel pump screws/bolts

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Extra Tip

Using an impact wrench can significantly speed up the process, especially when dealing with tight or old bolts.

Old Perodua Alza 2010 - Check Engine Light, No Power, and Difficulty to Start Engine

🚗 When Your Perodua Alza Loses Power… It Might Not Be What You Think

Have you ever experienced your Perodua Alza 2010 suddenly showing the check engine light, losing power when accelerating, and becoming difficult to start after shutting it off?

😓 It’s a frustrating situation — and your mind immediately starts racing.

You might assume that something serious has failed, and begin suspecting parts like:

🔧 Crankshaft Position Sensor
🔧 Camshaft Position Sensor
🔧 Fuel Injectors
🔧 Spark Plugs
🔧 Ignition Coils
🔧 Fuel Pump
🔧 Relays
🔧 IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)

So you start checking… and checking… and checking.

⏳ Hours go by. Maybe even days.

But everything seems fine.

At this point, you might convince yourself:
“Something must be faulty… I just haven’t found it yet.”

And that’s when costly replacements start becoming very tempting.

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💡 The Unexpected Discovery

I learned this the hard way.

After spending days troubleshooting and overthinking the issue, the real cause turned out to be something incredibly simple:

👉 A clogged fuel pump filter

Yes — that’s it.

No expensive sensors.
No major component failure.
Just a blockage affecting fuel flow.

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🧪 How I Found Out (Without Opening Anything)

Here’s the interesting part.

I didn’t even remove the fuel pump to inspect it.

Instead, I tried a simple and affordable solution:

🛢️ Mr. DIY Aeropak Petrol Fuel System Cleaner

After pouring it into the fuel tank, something amazing happened:

✅ Check engine light disappeared
✅ Engine power returned
✅ Car started normally again

And the best part?

💰 It only cost around RM7.00

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🤯 The Lesson Learned

Sometimes, we tend to:

❌ Overthink the problem
❌ Assume the worst-case scenario
❌ Spend time and money replacing parts blindly

When in reality, the issue might be something small and easily fixable.

It’s honestly frustrating to realize that after all the effort, the solution was so simple… and so cheap.

---

✅ Final Advice

Next time you experience:

⚠️ Check engine light
⚠️ Loss of power
⚠️ Difficulty starting

Before jumping into expensive repairs…

👉 Try a simple fuel system cleaner first.

It might just save you:

💸 Money
⏱️ Time
😵 Stress

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Sometimes, the smallest fix makes the biggest difference.

MotoLube 5w50 Engine Oil Review After First Time Use

🚗 First Time Trying MotoLube 5W30 – Surprisingly Impressive!

So I recently tried MotoLube 5W30 brewed by Yokohama Malaysia, and let me tell you—this budget-friendly oil took me by surprise.

🔧 The Discovery

I picked up a bottle from SK Hardware 6th Mile Kuching for only RM98—yes, only RM98! At first, I wasn’t expecting much. I’ve been using Perodua’s standard engine oil on my old Alza for quite some time. It gets the job done, but never really impressed me.

⚙️ The First Drive

After the oil change, I immediately felt the difference. The engine felt noticeably lighter, almost identical to how it feels with Shell Helix HX7 5W30. Throttle response improved, and it even felt like I gained a bit more torque. For a car like mine, that’s a big deal.

💡 Performance vs. Price

Based on experience, MotoLube performed nearly on par with Shell Helix HX7. What shocked me was that it outperformed Perodua’s own engine oil, and yet cost less—at least at the time. And here’s the kicker:

Fuel consumption dropped from 12L/100km to 9.9L/100km.
That’s a huge win in terms of fuel economy for my Alza.

😮 The Price Hike

Naturally, I went back to grab another bottle a week or two later. But to my dismay, the price had shot up to nearly RM135—almost matching the Shell Helix price. Yeah, I was a bit disappointed. But honestly? I get it.

If I were MotoLube, I’d raise the price too. They clearly know they’ve made something good.

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🔚 Final Thoughts

If you can still find MotoLube 5W30 at a good price, don’t hesitate—grab it. It gives premium oil performance at a budget price (well, it did). It made my engine smoother, lighter, and more fuel-efficient, and that’s everything I want in a good engine oil.

Let’s just hope SK Hardware does another promo soon. 😅

New Perodua Alza 2022 Fuse & Relay

New Perodua Alza 2022 Fuse and Relay In the Engine Bay  

Relay & Fuse Box Components and Their Functions

No.	Component	Rating	Function
1	HTR - Aircond	40A	Powers the air conditioning system.
2	RDI - Radiator	30A	Powers the radiator fan to prevent engine overheating.
3	ST - Starter	30A	Provides power to the starter motor for engine ignition.
4	EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection	15A	Powers the electronic fuel injection system for proper fuel delivery.
5	H-LP LH - Headlamp LH	15A	Powers the left-side headlamp.
6	H-LP RH - Headlamp RH	15A	Powers the right-side headlamp.
7	IG2 - Ignition 2	20A	Supplies power to secondary ignition-related components.
8	IG1 - Ignition 1	20A	Provides power to primary ignition-related components.
9	Fuel PMP	20A	Powers the fuel pump, supplying fuel to the engine.
10	ETCS	10A	Powers the Electronic Throttle Control System for engine performance.
11	HAZ - Hazard	10A	Powers the hazard lights for emergency signaling.
12	ABS	50A	Supplies power to the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS).
13	EPS	50A	Powers the Electric Power Steering (EPS) system.
14	ABS No. 2	30A	Additional fuse for the ABS system.
15	P/Outlet No. 2	15A	Powers power outlets (such as charging ports).
16	BACK UP	10A	Provides power to backup memory functions like clock and radio presets.
17	MG CLT	10A	Powers the Magnetic Clutch, usually related to the A/C compressor.
18	ST No. 2	10A	Additional fuse for the starter motor circuit.
19	BKUP LP	5A	Provides backup power to low-power circuits.
20	ECU IG2 - ECU Ignition 2	10A	Supplies power to the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
21	ENG	10A	General engine-related power supply.
22	EFI No. 2 - Electronic Fuel Injection No. 2	7.5A	Additional fuse for Electronic Fuel Injection.

Here's a table listing the fuses and relays from the provided image, along with their functions:

No.	Fuse Name	Rating (A)	Function
1	P/W No. 2	30A	Power window circuit protection
2	DEF - Defogger	20A	Rear window defogger system
3	ACC	10A	Accessory circuit (radio, power outlets, etc.)
4	Washer	15A	Windshield washer motor
5	HORN	10A	Car horn circuit
6	A/C	7.5A	Air conditioning system
7	FOG LH	10A	Left-hand fog light
8	FOG RH	10A	Right-hand fog light
9	BACK UP No.2	10A	Backup lights and memory power for systems
10	Strg Lock	10A	Steering lock system
11	AM 1	5A	Ignition circuit
12	P/W	20A	Power windows circuit
13	D/L No. 2	5A	Door lock circuit
14	P/Outlet	15A	Power outlet (e.g., cigarette lighter socket)
15	STOP	10A	Brake light circuit
16	D/L - Door Lock	15A	Door lock actuator circuit
17	Meter IG1	10A	Instrument panel and gauge cluster
18	ECU IG1	7.5A	Engine Control Unit (ECU) power supply
19	Wiper	25A	Windshield wiper motor circuit
20	IG1 No. 2	7.5A	Ignition circuit
21	OBD	10A	On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) system
22	DOME	10A	Interior lighting (dome light)
23	RR WIP - Rear Wiper	10A	Rear windshield wiper motor
24	AM2	7.5A	Ignition system, starter relay power
25	TAIL	10A	Tail light circuit
26	Spare	10A	Reserved for additional circuits
27	Spare	15A	Reserved for additional circuits
28	Spare	20A	Reserved for additional circuits

Old Perodua Alza 2010 - 2018 Fuses & Relays

Fuse and Relay of the old Perodua Alza 2010 - 2018 are the same as the old MyVi as below

Alza Engine Box Fuse and Relay

Relay & Fuse Box Components and Their Functions

No.	Component	Rating	Function
1	ABS 1 Fuse	40A	Protects the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) power circuit.
2	ST Relay	-	Controls the starter motor operation.
3	R/FAN Relay	-	Controls the operation of the radiator fan.
4	ECU-B Fuse	10A	Supplies power to the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
5	ABS 2 Fuse	20A	Additional fuse for the ABS system.
6	BACK UP Fuse	10A	Powers backup systems such as memory functions (e.g., clock, radio presets).
7	DOME Fuse	7.5A	Powers the interior dome lights.
8	MGC Fuse	10A	Likely related to the engine management system (could be for Magnetic Clutch).
9	AM 2 Fuse	30A	Powers ignition-related systems.
10	MGC Relay	-	Controls the Magnetic Clutch (potentially for A/C compressor).
11	HEAD Relay	-	Controls power to the headlights.
12	EFI Fuse	15A	Provides power to the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system.
13	STOP Fuse	7.5A	Powers the brake light circuit.
14	ST Fuse	7.5A	Powers the starter circuit.
15	H-LP RH (HI) Fuse	10A	Powers the right-side high beam headlight.
16	H-LP LH (HI) Fuse	10A	Powers the left-side high beam headlight.
17	H-LP RH (LO) Fuse	10A	Powers the right-side low beam headlight.
18	H-LP LH (LO) Fuse	10A	Powers the left-side low beam headlight.
19	HEATER Fuse	40A	Powers the heating system (for defrosters, A/C heater, or cabin heater).
20	R/FAN Fuse	30A	Powers the radiator fan system.

Old Alza 2010 - 2018 Main Fuse Block Components and Their Functions

Fuse	Rating	Function
POWER IG	30A	Powers the ignition system and essential electrical components.
ACC	7.5A	Powers accessories like the radio, charging ports, and dashboard functions.
ECU IG1	7.5A	Provides power to the first ignition circuit of the Engine Control Unit (ECU).
HORN/HAZ	10A	Controls the horn and hazard lights.
AM2	20A	Supplies power to ignition and engine-related components.
D/L	15A	Controls the door lock system.
AM1	15A	Powers ignition components and engine management systems.
TAIL	7.5A	Powers the tail lights, parking lights, and license plate lights.
FR WIPER	25A	Protects the front windshield wiper motor circuit.
RR WIPER	15A	Protects the rear windshield wiper motor circuit.
FOG RH	10A	Powers the right fog light.
DEFOG	20A	Powers the rear window defogger.
FOG LH	10A	Powers the left fog light.
SOCKET	15A	Protects the power socket (for charging devices).
E/G	10A	Supplies power to the engine control and management systems.
ECU IG2	7.5A	Provides power to the second ignition circuit of the ECU.
IG1/BACK	7.5A	Powers the ignition system and reverse lights.

Fius Alza lama

DIY Car Voltage Stabilizer Guide: Boosting Torque and Power – Does It Really Work?

If you're interested in boosting your car's performance with a DIY solution, voltage stabilizers might be something you've come across. These devices are marketed with claims of better torque, increased horsepower, and smoother acceleration, but opinions on their effectiveness vary. This guide will explore how car voltage stabilizers work, whether they really live up to the hype, and provide a step-by-step DIY approach.

 What Is a Car Voltage Stabilizer, and Do You Need One?

A car voltage stabilizer is designed to keep electrical voltage steady, connecting to the car battery and sometimes using grounding cables to reduce fluctuations. These fluctuations can affect performance, especially in vehicles with lots of electronic accessories or older wiring.

Do voltage stabilizers really work in cars? Results vary. Some drivers notice improvements in systems like audio and lighting, while performance gains are less clear. Voltage stabilizers may benefit components like the ECU (Engine Control Unit) by maintaining a stable voltage, potentially improving throttle response in models like the Perodua Alza. But for more noticeable power gains, you may need other upgrades.

 Can a Voltage Stabilizer Boost Power and Torque?

There’s a lot of discussion around whether voltage stabilizers can increase power and torque. They can help maintain steady power, which may smooth out acceleration or reduce hesitation in some cars, especially older ones or those with weak electrical systems. However, they don’t directly add horsepower. The biggest benefits are often in response and stability rather than a true power boost.

 The Myth and Reality of Voltage Stabilizers

Many claims about voltage stabilizers revolve around fuel efficiency, horsepower, and torque. The myth of voltage stabilizers often arises from misunderstanding their role: they stabilize voltage but don’t add engine output directly. If you’re expecting a big performance increase, you may be disappointed, though smoother operation is possible.

 DIY Car Voltage Stabilizer: Step-By-Step

Here’s a quick guide to making your own DIY voltage stabilizer.

1. Gather Materials: You’ll need a capacitor and grounding cables. Some people repurpose old capacitors to make a 12V car voltage stabilizer.

2. Assemble the Stabilizer: Connect the capacitor to the grounding cables. Capacitors stabilize voltage by absorbing excess and discharging it as needed.

3. Install on Car Battery: Secure the stabilizer to the battery and connect the grounding wires properly.

4. Test: Run your car and observe for smoother throttle response or other subtle changes.

Grounding Cables vs. Voltage Stabilizers: What's the Difference?

Grounding cables provide a more direct path for electrical flow, reducing resistance, while voltage stabilizers buffer fluctuations. Some aftermarket kits like the HKS Power Charger Voltage Stabilizer or RAIZIN Voltage Stabilizer include both grounding and stabilization.

 Popular Voltage Stabilizers and Reviews

Considering buying a voltage stabilizer instead of DIY? Here are some options.

• Pivot Mega Raizin: Known for voltage stability, grounding improvements, and effectiveness in audio and minor performance boosts.
• D1 Spec Voltage Stabilizer: Often praised for lighting and throttle response improvements.
• Hot Inazma Voltage Stabilizer and Zaptor Evolve III: Both offer voltage regulation with varying effectiveness based on car and electrical needs.

 How to Install a Car Voltage Stabilizer

To install, connect the stabilizer to the battery, attach grounding cables to the chassis, and test for improved stability in lights or throttle response.

 Pros and Cons of Car Voltage Stabilizers

Pros:

• Stabilizes voltage for sensitive electronics
• Possible minor improvements in response
• Potential fuel efficiency gains

Cons:

• Limited power gains
• Mixed results in newer vehicles
• Not a replacement for other performance upgrades

 Conclusion: Are Voltage Stabilizers Worth It?

In summary, do car voltage stabilizers really work? They can offer benefits for electrical stability and response, especially in older vehicles or those with voltage-sensitive electronics. While they may smooth performance, substantial gains require other modifications.

Whether you choose a Pivot Mega Raizin, Zaptor, or DIY stabilizer, remember that results will vary and that these aren’t a substitute for major tuning or upgrades.

Understanding the VVT Solenoid and Its Maintenance

 

What is a VVT Solenoid?

The Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid, also known as the VVT oil control valve or VVT actuator solenoid, is a critical component in modern engines that helps optimize engine performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions. It controls the flow of oil to the VVT system, which adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves.

Role of the VVT Solenoid in Engine Torque

The VVT solenoid adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves, which helps improve engine torque and overall performance. By varying the valve timing, the engine can optimize the air-fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber, enhancing combustion efficiency and power generation. This adaptability allows for improved torque at low RPMs and better power at high RPMs.

VVT Components and Terms

• VVT Sensor: Monitors the position of the camshaft and relays this information to the engine control unit (ECU) to adjust valve timing accurately.
• VVT Amps: Refers to the electrical current supplied to the VVT solenoid, which controls its operation.
• VVT Control Solenoid: Another term for the VVT solenoid, emphasizing its role in controlling valve timing.
• VVT Oil Pressure: Ensures the VVT system operates correctly by maintaining adequate oil flow to the solenoid and actuators.
• VVT Pressure Switch: Monitors oil pressure within the VVT system and sends signals to the ECU to maintain optimal pressure.

Specific Vehicle Applications

Dodge, Toyota, and Nissan

• Toyota Corolla and Yaris: Toyota's VVT systems are known for reliability. Regular maintenance includes checking the VVT solenoid for proper operation.
• Nissan VVT Solenoid: Nissan's VVT systems are similar to those in other makes, requiring regular checks and cleaning to ensure optimal performance.

Honda Vehicles

• Honda Accord, Odyssey, and CRV: Honda’s VVT systems, often labeled as VTEC, are crucial for performance. Regular maintenance includes checking the VVT oil control valve and pressure switch.
• VVT Pressure Switch in Honda CRV: Monitors oil pressure and ensures the VVT system functions correctly.

Kia Vehicles

• Kia Forte and Optima: Kia’s VVT systems require periodic cleaning and inspection of the solenoid and oil control valves.
• Kia Oil Control Valve: Regular checks and cleaning are essential to maintain the performance of Kia’s VVT systems.

Jeep Grand Cherokee

• Jeep Grand Cherokee VVT Solenoid: Regular inspection and cleaning of the VVT solenoid can prevent performance issues in the Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Cleaning and Maintenance

How to Clean VVT Solenoid

1. Preparation: Disconnect the battery and locate the VVT solenoid.
2. Removal: Carefully remove the solenoid from the engine.
3. Cleaning:
   • Manual Cleaning: Use a solvent and a brush to clean the solenoid. Ensure all oil passages are clear.
   • Ultrasonic Cleaner: One of the most effective ways to clean a VVT solenoid is using an ultrasonic cleaner. This method can deep clean areas unreachable by hand or brush.
   • Oil Additive: Adding a specialized oil additive can help clean the VVT system from the inside.

Solenoid Maintenance

• Regular Inspections: Check the VVT solenoid and related components during routine maintenance.
• Oil Quality: Use high-quality oil and change it regularly to prevent sludge buildup.
• Professional Service: For complex issues, consult a professional mechanic.

Related Components

• Oil Control Valve Assembly: Includes the VVT solenoid and other components controlling oil flow in the VVT system.
• Oil Control Valve Actuator: Works with the solenoid to adjust valve timing.
• Oil Pressure Control Valve (BMW, Ford F150): Ensures optimal oil pressure within the VVT system.

Conclusion

Maintaining the VVT solenoid and related components is crucial for the optimal performance of modern engines. Regular cleaning, using high-quality oil, and professional servicing can help ensure the VVT system functions efficiently, improving engine torque and overall performance. Using an ultrasonic cleaner is one of the best ways to deep clean the VVT solenoid, ensuring longevity and reliability.

Alza lower arm problems and replacement

The old Perodua Alza model from 2009 to 2022 plays a major role in the suspension area of the car, and in fact, it can have adverse effects on other components such as the driveshaft, braking system, and balancing.

First, let's discuss the driveshaft. For the Alza car, the driveshaft heavily relies on the lower arm to maintain its sturdy balance, especially inside the gearbox. A slight wear and tear to the control arm can result in a serious crackling sound in the gearbox. You might think this is a driveshaft issue and end up changing the wrong expensive part, not knowing that it's actually the lower arm which holds the driveshaft no longer stable. This was once demonstrated when I almost replaced the driveshaft due to a serious crackling sound inside the gearbox hole where the driveshaft is slotted in. The imbalance of the driveshaft's position due to a fault in the lower arm causes the gear inside the transmission to not hold the driveshaft properly. As a result, a very serious crackling sound occurs, and if left untreated, the teeth inside the gearbox might get damaged.

The second problem when the lower arm goes bad is the braking system becoming less effective at the front. This is due to the unstable brake disk, which the lower arm can no longer hold sturdily when it has gone bad. As a result, the braking system will become weak.

The third issue is tire balancing. You cannot have the Alza car balanced when the lower arm has gone bad—no matter what you do with it, when driving, it always feels wobbly. So, replacing it is the only solution to keep the car's balancing stable again.

There is one hidden trick when installing the Alza lower arm; most mechanics will use wire tape or anything to increase the size of the rear bolt of the arm to fit in exactly. The problem with hand winding the tape is that you can never get an accurate size, and sometimes you still have a gap between the bolt and the bolt hole of the lower arm. The result of this may cause random clicking noises to the driveshaft because it is not completely sturdy. This issue is very similar to the first one, but it produces random clicking noises only.

In order to solve this problem, see the picture below to learn how it should be done. Lower arm bolt bushing is the perfect solution, and the lower arm will be 100% guaranteed sturdy. No wobbling and driveshaft sound anymore

Degradation of ground surface area in older cars honda city idsi 2003-2008

The Honda City IDSI 2003-2008 model is indeed a remarkable car, boasting exceptional fuel economy that outshines its counterparts from the same era. Even after 17 years of use, the engine retains its vigor, seemingly capable of enduring another three decades without major issues.

However, with age comes a concerning issue – the gradual decline in the effectiveness of the grounding surfaces around the engine bay and chassis. This decline is primarily attributed to rust, engine oil spills, and the accumulation of dust and grime.

The resulting increase in resistance effectively splits the car's engine bay electrical grounding surface area into two distinct sections. The battery section and the fuse box each have their own grounding, whereas they should function as a unified entity.

Consequently, poor electrical connections have a considerable adverse impact on the overall engine performance of the Honda City IDSI, manifesting in issues such as:

• Delay gear shift.
• Pickup acceleration delay
• Consume a little more fuel. 
• Sluggish engine performance and sometimes very loud
• Car jerking badly when stopping at the traffic light while braking on gear D (Drive)
• Having difficult to start randomly (As if the battery is dead) empty crank.
• Door lock sometimes difficult to open / lock by the remote-control key.

The above problems arise when the engine sensors, solenoids does not have sufficient current flow to communicate with the ECU / ECM / PCM.

• On the transmission there are sensors and solenoids that must have enough current to communicate effectively with the TCM (Transmission Control Module)
• On the engine side
• MAP Sensor (Mass Absolute Pressure)
• MAF Sensor (Mass Air Flow)
• Coolant Temperature Sensor
• IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
• DDVT Solenoid
• Knock sensor.
• Oxygen Sensor
• ISCV 
• Camshaft position sensor
• Crankshaft position sensor
• Evaporative valve solenoid
• Throttle position sensor.

All engine sensors require an efficient flow of current to communicate seamlessly with the ECU, ensuring prompt operation of injectors and spark plugs for effective combustion within the engine. This assertion holds particularly true, as after the addition of a single high-quality copper wire for grounding, there was a significant improvement observed. This enhancement made it feel as if the engine had been revitalized, akin to the experience of having a new engine.

1. Gear shift delay - solved.
2. Pick up acceleration - improved significantly feeling can chase any high-speed car.
3. Fuel consumption is better.
4. Car jerks reduce significantly when braking on traffic light while on gear D.

What to do when the car feel sluggish and gear jerk

After years of driving suddenly you feel the car becoming sluggish and the gear starting to jerk especially when reverse or braking while on gear D. This is common behavior for most cars when it is getting old. So, what is first thing to check when it happens. 

The most basic thing to look at is the battery connection - make sure nothing loosely tightens and if so, tighten it accordingly. Loose battery connection can be the main culprit in sluggish car as the engine sensos such as.

MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor

MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

IAT - Intake Air Temperature Sensor. 

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor

ISCV - Idle Speed Control Valve

ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

CMP - Camshaft Position Sensor

CKP - Crankshaft Position Sensor

OCV - Oil Control Valve Solenoid

Knock Sensor

As well the spark plugs, fuel injector, fuel pumps

The sensors and components above require efficient electrical signal to communicate them between Engine Control Unit (ECU / ECM / PCM) effectively.

Meanwhile on the transmission side the gearbox solenoids and sensors require efficient current to communicate with the transmission control unit (TCU). 

Therefore, make sure the battery connection is tightly.

Redundant nipple valve on the K3 or 3sz-ve engine block behind the catalytic converter

Earlier I was wondering what the redundant nipple valve, sticking out of the 3sz-ve engine block. Even daihatsu forum has no answer for this so I've searched and found the mechanic manual book for K3 engine and it turns out that is the cooling water drain plug. Not sure what is the common function of the nipple valve since the coolant drain can easily be done via the radiator drain plug and for the record that valve rarely being used by anyone in the lifetime servicing their K3 engine.

Idle RPM not going up when A/C turned on and it cause the car to vibrate (shaking)

This is quite an intriguing problem that I've not yet do some experiment. The idle is running at 750 RPM without accessories on especially the air conditioning system. Now the interesting part is when the A/C is on the idle RPM refuse to increase and stays at 750 RPM that result in the car to shake (vibrate) feeling like almost stalling. 

The problem is becoming moe intense when braking on traffic light while on gear D and when the A/C compressor kicks in the vibration becoming even more because the idle speed stays around 750 RPM. Why won't the RPM also increase dynamically based on the engine load? 

Suggested solutions:

1. Idle Speed Control Solenoid - dirty / malfunction

2. Adjust the throttle body cable to get more air?

3. Air conditioning gas is over charged thus the compressor magnetic coil consume more power to engage

Will need to experiment this one by one and see the outcome.

Shell Helix H7 5W-30 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil - It is really fuel economy as claimed by shell?

All these while I've been using Perodua 5W-30 semi synthetic engine oil for the past 12 years. Coincidentally there was a promotion for Shell Helix H7 5w-30 semi synthetic by a petrol station and it was RM20+ cheaper than perodua semi synthetic oil. So why not and got one bottle 4 Litres for a trial. 

To my surprise the shell helix h7 5w-30 which is less viscosity than the Perodua really does more fuel economy. The old alza has been consuming average of 12.3 L/100km using Perodua engine oil but the shell helix is able to reduce around 11.6 L/100km for city driving and 11.2 L/100km long distance journey. That is trully incredible an engine oil could really have significant impact to the fuel economy. 

Apart from that the engine feel lighter and easily pick up quickly - less hesitation. This is from personal experience and probably won't work on cars that is already have good fuel economy average but for an older car that have been consuming fuel, the shell helix h7 5w-30 probably could help. The normal price probably way more expensive than perodua semi synthetic but you are compensated on the day-to-day fuel consumptions over a time span of 6 months before the next engine oil change. If you calculate the cumulative saving on fuel probably outweigh the price of the shell helix h7. 

So that's all my honest review from an experience using the Shell Helix H7 5W30 semi synthetic for the first time. The next engine oil change probably I will still go for it despite of the price since I can save more on daily fuel consumptions. 

NS40ZL battery cold crank amps (CCA) ratings

Amaron NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 265A

Panasonic NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 301A

Century NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 308A

Yokohama NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 370A

GP MF Gold NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 300A

Hyundai NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 330A

ACDelco NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 340A

Bosch NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 300A

Supercharge NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 330A

GS Yuasa NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 380A

Varta NS40ZL CCA Ratings = 272A

CCA stands for Cold Crank Amps which is the capacity of the battery that it can output to crank a car. Most of the CCA ratings are actually not exactly but estimates and each brand has its own rating. The theory is the higher the CCA the more charge it store and capable of cranking heavier engines. Most of the standard 12V lead acid battery CCA ratings usually around 500A+. Thus Alza actually consider as smaller engine as it uses NS40ZL battery which is average around 270A ~ 350A. 

Spray paint layers' sequence

Car plastic material - Primer --> undercoat primer ---> sanding ---> color paint --> clear coat (samurai)

Bare Metal - Etch primer --> primer --> undercoat primer ---> sanding ---> color paint --> clear coat

Old alza 2010 white color code W09 ivory white or milky white 

Plastic primer 737 (sandable) or X1 samurai plastic primer

Car Engine Unable to Kick Start Diagnosis

These are some of the problems to look for when car won't start / crank.

1. Check the battery - note that even at normal voltage like 12.5 ~ 12.7 volts there is a possibility that it won't be able to start a car. That's why mere a multimeter device won't help in this case. You need a real battery health checker to check the health and capacity of current it still holds.

2. Grounding cable - grounding cable can be a problem especially that leading to a starter / crank motor. It can be damaged (burnt) due to aging and frequent high current delivered to the starter. 

3. Fuse - check each of the fuse for continuity using a multimeter device.

4. Faulty fuel pump relay - use visual inspection first to check sign of burnt or damage. And interchange with other existing relay for testing purposes and start.

5. Ignition switch - faulty ignition switch also can lead to car won't start.

6. Bad fuel pump / spark plugs wiring

7. Faulty fuel pump / spark plugs

8. Faulty crankshaft and camshaft position sensors as well as their wiring could also prevent a car from starting.

9. Automatic transmission if it the gear on D (Drive) it also won't start the car. Shift it back to P or N and start again.

Engine subtle vibration / shaking tail tail sign of near clog catalytic converter

Engine subtle vibration until the dashboard area but there are no error fault codes when diagnose using the OBD2 scanner device. What could be the problem? This is happening to Alza car and the vibration still ongoing for quite sometimes. 

Apart from the vibration when the engine starting at cold start (early morning) strong smell like rotten egg emanating from the exhaust and of course the car unable to accelerate at full speed on the road despite pressing the gas pedal at full throttle. This is because the clogged catalytic converter suffocating the engine from breathing normally.

OBD2 fuel trim data also showing very rich exceeding the benchmark below -10% | +10% and it may spike up to -40% which is extremely rich or +20% for extremely lean. This is a sign the unburn gas during cold start unable to fully escape through the exhaust manifold catalytic converter and generating kick back which affect the oxygen sensor reading. So basically, exhaust fume generated from the combustions plus the kick back of unburn fumes caused the oxygen sensor to read extremely rich. However, pressing the gas pedal during cold start will see the fuel trim reading back to normal within -10% to +10% benchmark as the unburn fume being force through the clogged intake manifold.