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🚗 First Time Trying MotoLube 5W30 – Surprisingly Impressive!
So I recently tried MotoLube 5W30 brewed by Yokohama Malaysia, and let me tell you—this budget-friendly oil took me by surprise.
🔧 The Discovery
I picked up a bottle from SK Hardware 6th Mile Kuching for only RM98—yes, only RM98! At first, I wasn’t expecting much. I’ve been using Perodua’s standard engine oil on my old Alza for quite some time. It gets the job done, but never really impressed me.
⚙️ The First Drive
After the oil change, I immediately felt the difference. The engine felt noticeably lighter, almost identical to how it feels with Shell Helix HX7 5W30. Throttle response improved, and it even felt like I gained a bit more torque. For a car like mine, that’s a big deal.
💡 Performance vs. Price
Based on experience, MotoLube performed nearly on par with Shell Helix HX7. What shocked me was that it outperformed Perodua’s own engine oil, and yet cost less—at least at the time. And here’s the kicker:
Fuel consumption dropped from 12L/100km to 9.9L/100km.
That’s a huge win in terms of fuel economy for my Alza.
😮 The Price Hike
Naturally, I went back to grab another bottle a week or two later. But to my dismay, the price had shot up to nearly RM135—almost matching the Shell Helix price. Yeah, I was a bit disappointed. But honestly? I get it.
If I were MotoLube, I’d raise the price too. They clearly know they’ve made something good.
🔚 Final Thoughts
If you can still find MotoLube 5W30 at a good price, don’t hesitate—grab it. It gives premium oil performance at a budget price (well, it did). It made my engine smoother, lighter, and more fuel-efficient, and that’s everything I want in a good engine oil.
Let’s just hope SK Hardware does another promo soon. 😅
If you're interested in boosting your car's performance with
a DIY solution, voltage stabilizers might be something you've come across.
These devices are marketed with claims of better torque, increased horsepower,
and smoother acceleration, but opinions on their effectiveness vary. This guide
will explore how car voltage stabilizers work, whether they really live up to
the hype, and provide a step-by-step DIY approach.
What Is a Car Voltage
Stabilizer, and Do You Need One?
A car voltage stabilizer is designed to keep electrical
voltage steady, connecting to the car battery and sometimes using grounding
cables to reduce fluctuations. These fluctuations can affect performance,
especially in vehicles with lots of electronic accessories or older wiring.
Do voltage stabilizers really work in cars? Results vary.
Some drivers notice improvements in systems like audio and lighting, while
performance gains are less clear. Voltage stabilizers may benefit components
like the ECU (Engine Control Unit) by maintaining a stable voltage, potentially
improving throttle response in models like the Perodua Alza. But for more
noticeable power gains, you may need other upgrades.
Can a Voltage
Stabilizer Boost Power and Torque?
There’s a lot of discussion around whether voltage
stabilizers can increase power and torque. They can help maintain steady power,
which may smooth out acceleration or reduce hesitation in some cars, especially
older ones or those with weak electrical systems. However, they don’t directly
add horsepower. The biggest benefits are often in response and stability rather
than a true power boost.
The Myth and Reality
of Voltage Stabilizers
Many claims about voltage stabilizers revolve around fuel
efficiency, horsepower, and torque. The myth of voltage stabilizers often
arises from misunderstanding their role: they stabilize voltage but don’t add
engine output directly. If you’re expecting a big performance increase, you may
be disappointed, though smoother operation is possible.
DIY Car Voltage
Stabilizer: Step-By-Step
Here’s a quick guide to making your own DIY voltage
stabilizer.
1. Gather Materials: You’ll need a capacitor and grounding
cables. Some people repurpose old capacitors to make a 12V car voltage
stabilizer.
2. Assemble the Stabilizer: Connect the capacitor to the
grounding cables. Capacitors stabilize voltage by absorbing excess and
discharging it as needed.
3. Install on Car Battery: Secure the stabilizer to the
battery and connect the grounding wires properly.
4. Test: Run your car and observe for smoother throttle
response or other subtle changes.
Grounding Cables vs. Voltage Stabilizers: What's the
Difference?
Grounding cables provide a more direct path for electrical
flow, reducing resistance, while voltage stabilizers buffer fluctuations. Some
aftermarket kits like the HKS Power Charger Voltage Stabilizer or RAIZIN
Voltage Stabilizer include both grounding and stabilization.
Popular Voltage
Stabilizers and Reviews
Considering buying a voltage stabilizer instead of DIY? Here
are some options.
Pivot Mega Raizin: Known for voltage stability, grounding
improvements, and effectiveness in audio and minor performance boosts.
D1 Spec Voltage Stabilizer: Often praised for lighting and
throttle response improvements.
Hot Inazma Voltage Stabilizer and Zaptor Evolve III: Both
offer voltage regulation with varying effectiveness based on car and electrical
needs.
How to Install a Car
Voltage Stabilizer
To install, connect the stabilizer to the battery, attach
grounding cables to the chassis, and test for improved stability in lights or
throttle response.
Pros and Cons of Car
Voltage Stabilizers
Pros:
Stabilizes voltage for sensitive electronics
Possible minor improvements in response
Potential fuel efficiency gains
Cons:
Limited power gains
Mixed results in newer vehicles
Not a replacement for other performance upgrades
Conclusion: Are
Voltage Stabilizers Worth It?
In summary, do car voltage stabilizers really work? They can
offer benefits for electrical stability and response, especially in older
vehicles or those with voltage-sensitive electronics. While they may smooth
performance, substantial gains require other modifications.
Whether you choose a Pivot Mega Raizin, Zaptor, or DIY
stabilizer, remember that results will vary and that these aren’t a substitute
for major tuning or upgrades.
The Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid, also known as the VVT oil control valve or VVT actuator solenoid, is a critical component in modern engines that helps optimize engine performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions. It controls the flow of oil to the VVT system, which adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves.
Role of the VVT Solenoid in Engine Torque
The VVT solenoid adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves, which helps improve engine torque and overall performance. By varying the valve timing, the engine can optimize the air-fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber, enhancing combustion efficiency and power generation. This adaptability allows for improved torque at low RPMs and better power at high RPMs.
VVT Components and Terms
VVT Sensor: Monitors the position of the camshaft and relays this information to the engine control unit (ECU) to adjust valve timing accurately.
VVT Amps: Refers to the electrical current supplied to the VVT solenoid, which controls its operation.
VVT Control Solenoid: Another term for the VVT solenoid, emphasizing its role in controlling valve timing.
VVT Oil Pressure: Ensures the VVT system operates correctly by maintaining adequate oil flow to the solenoid and actuators.
VVT Pressure Switch: Monitors oil pressure within the VVT system and sends signals to the ECU to maintain optimal pressure.
Specific Vehicle Applications
Dodge, Toyota, and Nissan
Toyota Corolla and Yaris: Toyota's VVT systems are known for reliability. Regular maintenance includes checking the VVT solenoid for proper operation.
Nissan VVT Solenoid: Nissan's VVT systems are similar to those in other makes, requiring regular checks and cleaning to ensure optimal performance.
Honda Vehicles
Honda Accord, Odyssey, and CRV: Honda’s VVT systems, often labeled as VTEC, are crucial for performance. Regular maintenance includes checking the VVT oil control valve and pressure switch.
VVT Pressure Switch in Honda CRV: Monitors oil pressure and ensures the VVT system functions correctly.
Kia Vehicles
Kia Forte and Optima: Kia’s VVT systems require periodic cleaning and inspection of the solenoid and oil control valves.
Kia Oil Control Valve: Regular checks and cleaning are essential to maintain the performance of Kia’s VVT systems.
Jeep Grand Cherokee
Jeep Grand Cherokee VVT Solenoid: Regular inspection and cleaning of the VVT solenoid can prevent performance issues in the Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Cleaning and Maintenance
How to Clean VVT Solenoid
Preparation: Disconnect the battery and locate the VVT solenoid.
Removal: Carefully remove the solenoid from the engine.
Cleaning:
Manual Cleaning: Use a solvent and a brush to clean the solenoid. Ensure all oil passages are clear.
Ultrasonic Cleaner: One of the most effective ways to clean a VVT solenoid is using an ultrasonic cleaner. This method can deep clean areas unreachable by hand or brush.
Oil Additive: Adding a specialized oil additive can help clean the VVT system from the inside.
Solenoid Maintenance
Regular Inspections: Check the VVT solenoid and related components during routine maintenance.
Oil Quality: Use high-quality oil and change it regularly to prevent sludge buildup.
Professional Service: For complex issues, consult a professional mechanic.
Related Components
Oil Control Valve Assembly: Includes the VVT solenoid and other components controlling oil flow in the VVT system.
Oil Control Valve Actuator: Works with the solenoid to adjust valve timing.
Oil Pressure Control Valve (BMW, Ford F150): Ensures optimal oil pressure within the VVT system.
Conclusion
Maintaining the VVT solenoid and related components is crucial for the optimal performance of modern engines. Regular cleaning, using high-quality oil, and professional servicing can help ensure the VVT system functions efficiently, improving engine torque and overall performance. Using an ultrasonic cleaner is one of the best ways to deep clean the VVT solenoid, ensuring longevity and reliability.
The old Perodua Alza model from 2009 to 2022 plays a major role in the suspension area of the car, and in fact, it can have adverse effects on other components such as the driveshaft, braking system, and balancing.
First, let's discuss the driveshaft. For the Alza car, the driveshaft heavily relies on the lower arm to maintain its sturdy balance, especially inside the gearbox. A slight wear and tear to the control arm can result in a serious crackling sound in the gearbox. You might think this is a driveshaft issue and end up changing the wrong expensive part, not knowing that it's actually the lower arm which holds the driveshaft no longer stable. This was once demonstrated when I almost replaced the driveshaft due to a serious crackling sound inside the gearbox hole where the driveshaft is slotted in. The imbalance of the driveshaft's position due to a fault in the lower arm causes the gear inside the transmission to not hold the driveshaft properly. As a result, a very serious crackling sound occurs, and if left untreated, the teeth inside the gearbox might get damaged.
The second problem when the lower arm goes bad is the braking system becoming less effective at the front. This is due to the unstable brake disk, which the lower arm can no longer hold sturdily when it has gone bad. As a result, the braking system will become weak.
The third issue is tire balancing. You cannot have the Alza car balanced when the lower arm has gone bad—no matter what you do with it, when driving, it always feels wobbly. So, replacing it is the only solution to keep the car's balancing stable again.
There is one hidden trick when installing the Alza lower arm; most mechanics will use wire tape or anything to increase the size of the rear bolt of the arm to fit in exactly. The problem with hand winding the tape is that you can never get an accurate size, and sometimes you still have a gap between the bolt and the bolt hole of the lower arm. The result of this may cause random clicking noises to the driveshaft because it is not completely sturdy. This issue is very similar to the first one, but it produces random clicking noises only.
In order to solve this problem, see the picture below to learn how it should be done. Lower arm bolt bushing is the perfect solution, and the lower arm will be 100% guaranteed sturdy. No wobbling and driveshaft sound anymore
The Honda City IDSI 2003-2008 model is indeed a remarkable car, boasting exceptional fuel economy that outshines its counterparts from the same era. Even after 17 years of use, the engine retains its vigor, seemingly capable of enduring another three decades without major issues.
However, with age comes a concerning issue – the gradual decline in the effectiveness of the grounding surfaces around the engine bay and chassis. This decline is primarily attributed to rust, engine oil spills, and the accumulation of dust and grime.
The resulting increase in resistance effectively splits the car's engine bay electrical grounding surface area into two distinct sections. The battery section and the fuse box each have their own grounding, whereas they should function as a unified entity.
Consequently, poor electrical connections have a considerable adverse impact on the overall engine performance of the Honda City IDSI, manifesting in issues such as:
Delay gear shift.
Pickup acceleration delay
Consume a little more fuel.
Sluggish engine performance and sometimes very loud
Car jerking badly when stopping at the traffic light while braking on gear D (Drive)
Having difficult to start randomly (As if the battery is dead) empty crank.
Door lock sometimes difficult to open / lock by the remote-control key.
The above problems arise when the engine sensors, solenoids does not have sufficient current flow to communicate with the ECU / ECM / PCM.
On the transmission there are sensors and solenoids that must have enough current to communicate effectively with the TCM (Transmission Control Module)
On the engine side
MAP Sensor (Mass Absolute Pressure)
MAF Sensor (Mass Air Flow)
Coolant Temperature Sensor
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
DDVT Solenoid
Knock sensor.
Oxygen Sensor
ISCV
Camshaft position sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Evaporative valve solenoid
Throttle position sensor.
All engine sensors require an efficient flow of current to communicate seamlessly with the ECU, ensuring prompt operation of injectors and spark plugs for effective combustion within the engine. This assertion holds particularly true, as after the addition of a single high-quality copper wire for grounding, there was a significant improvement observed. This enhancement made it feel as if the engine had been revitalized, akin to the experience of having a new engine.
Gear shift delay - solved.
Pick up acceleration - improved significantly feeling can chase any high-speed car.
Fuel consumption is better.
Car jerks reduce significantly when braking on traffic light while on gear D.
After years of driving suddenly you feel the car becoming sluggish and the gear starting to jerk especially when reverse or braking while on gear D. This is common behavior for most cars when it is getting old. So, what is first thing to check when it happens.
The most basic thing to look at is the battery connection - make sure nothing loosely tightens and if so, tighten it accordingly. Loose battery connection can be the main culprit in sluggish car as the engine sensos such as.
MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
IAT - Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
ISCV - Idle Speed Control Valve
ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
CMP - Camshaft Position Sensor
CKP - Crankshaft Position Sensor
OCV - Oil Control Valve Solenoid
Knock Sensor
As well the spark plugs, fuel injector, fuel pumps
The sensors and components above require efficient electrical signal to communicate them between Engine Control Unit (ECU / ECM / PCM) effectively.
Meanwhile on the transmission side the gearbox solenoids and sensors require efficient current to communicate with the transmission control unit (TCU).
Therefore, make sure the battery connection is tightly.
Earlier I was wondering what the redundant nipple valve, sticking out of the 3sz-ve engine block. Even daihatsu forum has no answer for this so I've searched and found the mechanic manual book for K3 engine and it turns out that is the cooling water drain plug. Not sure what is the common function of the nipple valve since the coolant drain can easily be done via the radiator drain plug and for the record that valve rarely being used by anyone in the lifetime servicing their K3 engine.
This is quite an intriguing problem that I've not yet do some experiment. The idle is running at 750 RPM without accessories on especially the air conditioning system. Now the interesting part is when the A/C is on the idle RPM refuse to increase and stays at 750 RPM that result in the car to shake (vibrate) feeling like almost stalling.
The problem is becoming moe intense when braking on traffic light while on gear D and when the A/C compressor kicks in the vibration becoming even more because the idle speed stays around 750 RPM. Why won't the RPM also increase dynamically based on the engine load?
Suggested solutions:
1. Idle Speed Control Solenoid - dirty / malfunction
2. Adjust the throttle body cable to get more air?
3. Air conditioning gas is over charged thus the compressor magnetic coil consume more power to engage
Will need to experiment this one by one and see the outcome.
All these while I've been using Perodua 5W-30 semi synthetic engine oil for the past 12 years. Coincidentally there was a promotion for Shell Helix H7 5w-30 semi synthetic by a petrol station and it was RM20+ cheaper than perodua semi synthetic oil. So why not and got one bottle 4 Litres for a trial.
To my surprise the shell helix h7 5w-30 which is less viscosity than the Perodua really does more fuel economy. The old alza has been consuming average of 12.3 L/100km using Perodua engine oil but the shell helix is able to reduce around 11.6 L/100km for city driving and 11.2 L/100km long distance journey. That is trully incredible an engine oil could really have significant impact to the fuel economy.
Apart from that the engine feel lighter and easily pick up quickly - less hesitation. This is from personal experience and probably won't work on cars that is already have good fuel economy average but for an older car that have been consuming fuel, the shell helix h7 5w-30 probably could help. The normal price probably way more expensive than perodua semi synthetic but you are compensated on the day-to-day fuel consumptions over a time span of 6 months before the next engine oil change. If you calculate the cumulative saving on fuel probably outweigh the price of the shell helix h7.
So that's all my honest review from an experience using the Shell Helix H7 5W30 semi synthetic for the first time. The next engine oil change probably I will still go for it despite of the price since I can save more on daily fuel consumptions.
CCA stands for Cold Crank Amps which is the capacity of the battery that it can output to crank a car. Most of the CCA ratings are actually not exactly but estimates and each brand has its own rating. The theory is the higher the CCA the more charge it store and capable of cranking heavier engines. Most of the standard 12V lead acid battery CCA ratings usually around 500A+. Thus Alza actually consider as smaller engine as it uses NS40ZL battery which is average around 270A ~ 350A.
These are some of the problems to look for when car won't start / crank.
1. Check the battery - note that even at normal voltage like 12.5 ~ 12.7 volts there is a possibility that it won't be able to start a car. That's why mere a multimeter device won't help in this case. You need a real battery health checker to check the health and capacity of current it still holds.
2. Grounding cable - grounding cable can be a problem especially that leading to a starter / crank motor. It can be damaged (burnt) due to aging and frequent high current delivered to the starter.
3. Fuse - check each of the fuse for continuity using a multimeter device.
4. Faulty fuel pump relay - use visual inspection first to check sign of burnt or damage. And interchange with other existing relay for testing purposes and start.
5. Ignition switch - faulty ignition switch also can lead to car won't start.
6. Bad fuel pump / spark plugs wiring
7. Faulty fuel pump / spark plugs
8. Faulty crankshaft and camshaft position sensors as well as their wiring could also prevent a car from starting.
9. Automatic transmission if it the gear on D (Drive) it also won't start the car. Shift it back to P or N and start again.
Engine subtle vibration until the dashboard area but there are no error fault codes when diagnose using the OBD2 scanner device. What could be the problem? This is happening to Alza car and the vibration still ongoing for quite sometimes.
Apart from the vibration when the engine starting at cold start (early morning) strong smell like rotten egg emanating from the exhaust and of course the car unable to accelerate at full speed on the road despite pressing the gas pedal at full throttle. This is because the clogged catalytic converter suffocating the engine from breathing normally.
OBD2 fuel trim data also showing very rich exceeding the benchmark below -10% | +10% and it may spike up to -40% which is extremely rich or +20% for extremely lean. This is a sign the unburn gas during cold start unable to fully escape through the exhaust manifold catalytic converter and generating kick back which affect the oxygen sensor reading. So basically, exhaust fume generated from the combustions plus the kick back of unburn fumes caused the oxygen sensor to read extremely rich. However, pressing the gas pedal during cold start will see the fuel trim reading back to normal within -10% to +10% benchmark as the unburn fume being force through the clogged intake manifold.
After an experience replacing front wheel bearings lately - there is a feeling it's one of the most important components of the wheel that need to inspect occasionally and require replacement as soon as possible if it has gone bad. The wheel bearing is a very strong component that also helps to assist the suspensions to keep the car stable while driving on the roads.
As the wheel bearings worn out it weakens the grip on the driveshaft and causing the wheel to wobble. If left too long for example years without replacing just because it's a minor wobbly the problem could creep to the cv axle differential bearings inside the gearbox which hold the inner end of the driveshaft. This is because the wheel bearing could no longer hold the driveshaft firmly on one side and automatically yank the other end back and forth which is being hold by the differential bearings.
And of course, replacement of the differential bearings will cost more to replace, and it require special tools, effort and time to get it done.
1. Engine mount check including transmission mount
2. Spark plugs checked
3. Fuel injector checked
4. Transmission and engine fault code checked
Have exhausted inspections on all the major parts as above but there are still obvious vibrations can be seen on the engine and subtly around the dashboard area. However, have driven the car for couple of months nothing seems to be wrong until unprecedented check engine light symbol turned on. Upon workshop inspections by the OBD2 scanner the DTC fault code indicates faulty oxygen sensor. After replacement of the o2 sensor there seems to be some improvement in the combustion's performance crispier. In addition, the vibrations also seem to go away - could it be the faulty oxygen sensor providing wrong data to the ECU and in returns the ECU command inconsistent fuel injections that leads to the engine vibrations in the first place? It seems there is something to ponder on this.
After a couple of experience using the maintenance free battery at last have replace it back using the lead acid battery. It's a local brand or perhaps brandless battery called Enerlite and it cost 70% cheaper than all the maintenance free battery was installed on 27/12/2019 which is already lasted 2 years 10 months and still going. Most of the maintenance free battery lasted around 1.5 years and maximum nearly 2 years - which means the lead acid battery outlasts not only by the price but also durability.
At cold start before the Engine Coolant Temperature reaches the optimum level around 83 ~ 85 degrees Celsius the fuel trim running extremely rich at negative 32% ~ 34%. This is crazy amount beyond the recommended range of -/+10%. When it reaches the optimum temperature, it usually oscillates around -20% ~ 14% which is still considerably rich.
At times it will down to -7% to -4% and then rises again to -12% ~ -14% after the car getting warmed up for longer time. The problem seems to be very elusive and not sure what could have caused such weird behavior of the long-term fuel trim.
There is one of the most obvious signs to this problem when stepping on the gas pedal briefly the long term will go down between 0.0 to -7% which is very good and that indicates the car is lacking air for combustions.
So, the presumptions analysis goes like this - At cold start the car run extremely rich around -32% to -34% and it goes down to -7% to -4% at optimum temperature @ 83 ~85 degree Celsius. As the car being driven and warmed up longer the fuel becoming thinner and capable to deliver more / faster but lack of air and the long-term fuel trim starting to go up around -12% to -14% again and sometimes -25% when running at idle or cruising without stepping on the gas pedal. However, when stepping on the gas pedal briefly the long-term fuel trim goes down between 0 to -7%. This concludes to a presumption that the car is lack of air flow when idle or cruising without stepping on the gas. But the real problem is what could have caused the lack of air?
These are few things tweaks that has been performed but no changes so far
Checking Parameters
Fuel Trim Improvement
Adding magnetic fuel saver
It seems to work for a couple of days but after that the fuel trim running rich again -32% maximum which is worst. This concludes that magnet have little effect to the fuel combustions
A very unique problem of the NGK DCPR7EA-9 spark plug which manufactured locally. Because of the shape of the negative electrode curve it causes premature sparks before it reaches near the tips of the positive electrode. Should the negative electrode curve more rounder like the one made in Japan this problem should not arise
